Dish magazine · South Indian cuisine

Masala Dosa: Origins, Batter & the Potato Filling

Masala dosa explained: where the crisp rice and lentil crêpe comes from, how it is made and what to eat with it, in Berlin-Köpenick.

6 min readHalal · no alcohol

Masala Dosa

Masala dosa starts with a sound: batter hisses on a hot iron griddle, is spread thin with one sweep of a ladle and turns golden within minutes. A spoonful of spiced potato goes in, the crêpe is rolled or folded – and you have a breakfast that is as ordinary in South India as toast is in Britain. One bite through the crisp edge and it is easy to see why this dish travelled so far beyond India.

At a glance

  • Name: masala dosa, in Karnataka also masale dose
  • Origin: South India, closely tied to the cooking of Udupi in Karnataka
  • Flavour: crisp and gently tangy outside, soft and savoury inside
  • Key ingredients: rice, urad dal, potatoes, onions, mustard seeds, curry leaves, turmeric
  • Eat it with: sambar and chutney

A dish with more than one beginning

The dosa itself is ancient. The Indian food historian K. T. Achaya found hints that it was eaten in the Tamil south some two thousand years ago, and dated its first clear written mention to Tamil literature of the 8th century. Another historian, P. Thankappan Nair, places its birth in Udupi, a temple town on the Karnataka coast. The Manasollasa, a 12th-century Sanskrit encyclopaedia attributed to King Someshvara III, already contains a recipe for it.

The filling is far younger. Potatoes only reached India with European traders in the early modern era, so the popular legend that a medieval king’s cooks invented masala dosa cannot be right. A 20th-century origin, in the vegetarian eating houses of the Udupi tradition, is much more likely.

Udupi, Madras and the eating houses

Udupi cooking grew out of the temple kitchens around the town’s Krishna temple and is almost entirely vegetarian. In the 20th century, cooks from the region opened simple restaurants in cities all over India, serving idli, vada, upma and dosa. A key figure was K. Krishna Rao, who opened Udupi Sri Krishna Vilas in Madras, today’s Chennai – the restaurant that later became Woodlands. He is often credited with making masala dosa famous in the form we know today, and from there it spread across the country.

A crêpe of rice and lentils, a handful of potatoes – and one of India’s best-loved breakfasts.

How masala dosa is made

A good masala dosa takes time, even though it cooks in a few minutes. The real work starts the day before.

1. The batter: rice, urad dal and a night of patience

Rice and skinned urad dal (black gram) are soaked separately, usually three or four parts rice to one part lentils, often with a few fenugreek seeds. Both are ground finely, salted and left overnight. During that time the batter ferments: it rises a little, turns airy and develops a mild sourness. That fermentation is what later gives the dosa its golden colour and its distinctive aroma.

2. The filling: potatoes with mustard seeds and curry leaves

For the masala, boiled potatoes are roughly crushed rather than mashed. Black mustard seeds are popped in hot oil first, followed by curry leaves, onions, green chilli, ginger and turmeric. Turmeric turns the filling a sunny yellow, and curry leaves add a fresh, faintly citrus fragrance. Depending on the cook, grated coconut, fresh coriander or a squeeze of lemon finish it off.

3. On the tava: thin, hot and fast

The batter is poured onto a very hot, lightly greased iron griddle called a tava and spread outwards in a spiral with the back of a ladle. The thinner it goes, the crisper it gets. Once the underside is golden, the potato filling goes in the middle, and the dosa is rolled or folded into a triangle and served straight away.

What does masala dosa taste like?

The first thing you notice is the crunch: the edge is thin and crisp, while the centre stays softer. Fermentation gives the crêpe a light, pleasant tang, a little like good sourdough. The filling is warm, soft and savoury – not necessarily hot, but lively with mustard seeds, ginger and curry leaves. With sambar and chutney alongside, you get a constant back-and-forth between crisp and soft, tangy and mellow, and a meal that fills you up without weighing you down.

What to eat with masala dosa

In South India a masala dosa rarely arrives on its own. It is traditionally eaten with the right hand: tear off a piece, pick up some filling and dip.

  • Sambar: the classic partner – a lentil and vegetable stew with tamarind that soaks into every crisp piece.
  • Chutney: coconut chutney is the South Indian standard, often joined by a tomato or coriander chutney.
  • Masala buttermilk: cool, lightly spiced and refreshing next to the savoury filling.

The dosa family: from Mysore to ghee roast

The same basic batter has produced a whole family of dishes in South India. Some of the best known:

  • Mysore masala dosa: a bold red paste of chilli, garlic and lentils is spread inside before the potato goes in, making it punchier and hotter.
  • Onion masala dosa: finely chopped onion is scattered over the fresh batter and toasts on the griddle.
  • Ghee roast: extra thin, cooked with plenty of clarified butter and often shaped into a tall cone.
  • Milagai podi dosa: dusted with milagai podi, a coarse, fiery powder of roasted lentils and chilli that South Indians nickname “gunpowder”.
  • Set dosa: smaller, thicker and spongy, usually served several at a time.

Masala dosa around the world

With the Udupi restaurants, masala dosa first moved into India’s big cities, from Mumbai to Delhi. South Indian emigrants had already taken the dosa to Sri Lanka in colonial times, and later it followed the Indian diaspora to Malaysia, Singapore, the UK and North America. Today it appears on Indian menus in many countries – and for plenty of travellers it is the one dish they never forget from South India.

Masala dosa at Masalas

In our kitchen in Berlin-Köpenick we fill the dosa with spiced potato – just as it is eaten in South India, at breakfast and at any other time of day. We cook without alcohol, and you can order it for delivery or collection.

And you choose the heat. If you want it the way it is eaten in India, with real Indian spice, just tell us in the order note – or ask for it mild, the way many of our guests in Germany prefer.

Masala Dosa
At Masalas, Berlin-Köpenick

Masala Dosa

Dosa filled with spiced potato.

11,90 €vegetarianHalal · no alcohol

Allergens: mustard

Your heat: mild, or real Indian spicy – just add it in the note when you order.

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Masala dosa FAQ

What does “masala” mean in masala dosa?

Masala means a spice mix. In masala dosa it refers to the spiced potato filling that turns a plain dosa into a full meal.

Is masala dosa a pancake?

Not quite. It looks like a large crêpe, but it is made from a fermented rice and lentil batter, which makes it crisper and gives it a gentle tang.

Is masala dosa only eaten for breakfast?

In South India it is a classic breakfast, but people eat it just as happily at lunch, in the afternoon or for dinner.

Masalas · Berlin-Köpenick

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