Dish magazine · South Indian cuisine

South Indian Meals: Sambar, Rasam & the Order of Eating

Rice, sambar, rasam, poori and yoghurt: how a South Indian meal is put together and how to eat it – freshly cooked in Berlin-Köpenick.

6 min readHalal · no alcohol

Masalas Special Meal

Walk into a simple lunch place in Chennai, Bengaluru or Udupi and you often won’t order a dish at all. You say one word: “meals”. A few minutes later a large plate arrives with a whole small menu on it – rice in the middle, and around it sambar, rasam, vegetables, yoghurt, a crisp papad and often freshly puffed bread. The South Indian meal is not a show for visitors. It is the ordinary weekday lunch of millions of people.

At a glance

  • Name: South Indian meal, known in India simply as “meals”; saapadu in Tamil, oota in Kannada
  • Origin: South India – Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh
  • Flavour: many small tastes side by side: sour, peppery, mild, creamy, crunchy
  • Key ingredients: rice, lentils, tamarind, curry leaves, mustard seeds, vegetables, yoghurt, ghee
  • Served with: papad, pickles, buttermilk

From temple kitchen to city lunch counter

The idea of bringing many small dishes together, in a fixed order, as one single meal is very old in South India. Traditionally it was eaten off a banana leaf: large, waterproof, clean and fully biodegradable once the meal is over – perfect for feasts with hundreds of guests. Eating from the leaf is mentioned as far back as ancient Tamil Sangam poetry.

The temple town of Udupi, on the coast of Karnataka, played a special part. Around its Krishna temple grew a vegetarian cuisine used to feed pilgrims every day. Cooks trained in that tradition began opening modest eating houses from the 1920s in cities such as Madras – today’s Chennai – and Bangalore, and later in Bombay. These “Udupi hotels” were cheap, clean and strictly vegetarian, and their set lunch of rice with sambar, rasam, vegetables and pickles, often refilled as long as you liked, carried the “meals” idea across India and eventually abroad.

A South Indian meal is not one dish – it is a whole lunch table gathered on a single plate.

What’s on the plate?

Every family and every region puts its meal together a little differently, but a few things turn up almost every time:

  • Rice: the heart of it all. Everything else is mixed into the rice, a little at a time.
  • Sambar: a hearty stew of lentils, vegetables and tamarind, seasoned with its own sambar spice blend.
  • Rasam: a thin, clear, peppery broth soured with tomato or tamarind, poured straight over the rice.
  • Vegetable curries: usually one dry, stir-fried vegetable and one in a sauce.
  • Yoghurt: to cool the palate at the end.
  • Papad: paper-thin, crackling discs made from lentil flour.

Many places add bread as well. A favourite is poori: small rounds of wheat dough that balloon up in hot oil, crisp outside and soft within.

How to eat it: the running order

A South Indian meal has a rhythm of its own. You don’t eat everything at once; you work through it in rounds, with rice as the base each time.

1. Start with the bread

If there is poori, it is usually eaten first, while it is still warm and puffed. Tear off a piece and use it to scoop up some vegetable curry.

2. Rice with sambar

Then comes the first rice round. Sambar goes over a mound of rice, often with a spoonful of ghee. Many people crush a piece of papad on top for crunch and eat the vegetables alongside.

3. Rice with rasam

The second round is lighter. The thin rasam is poured over fresh rice, and after the rich sambar its pepper and sourness feel almost like a fresh start. This is where the fiery pickles come in.

4. Rice with yoghurt

Finally, rice is mixed with yoghurt. Cool and gently tangy, it settles the palate after the spiced rounds. For many South Indians a meal without this last step simply doesn’t feel finished.

What does a South Indian meal taste like?

The pleasure lies in the contrast. Sambar is round, earthy and a little sour from the tamarind. Rasam is thin and lively, with a clear hit of black pepper and the scent of curry leaves and cumin. The vegetable dishes bring sweetness, toasted notes and sometimes coconut. Yoghurt is cool and mild, papad salty and crisp, pickles hot and sharp.

So unlike a single curry, there is no one flavour here – every mouthful is your own combination. Running through the whole plate is the South Indian tempering known in Tamil as thalippu: mustard seeds, curry leaves and dried chillies are fried briefly in hot fat until the seeds pop, then spooned over sambar, rasam or vegetables. That one step gives so much of the meal its nutty, aromatic smell.

Meals, thali or sadya?

The words get mixed up, but they don’t mean quite the same thing:

  • Thali literally means “plate” – the big metal tray with lots of small bowls. The word is used all over India; in the north a thali often comes with chapati, dal and raita.
  • Meals is the everyday South Indian word for the rice lunch with sambar, rasam and yoghurt, on a plate or a banana leaf.
  • Sadya is the great festive feast of Kerala, served for the harvest festival of Onam, for example. It comes on a banana leaf and can run to more than twenty dishes, ending with sweet payasam.

The meal across South India

In Tamil Nadu you will often find an extra yoghurt-based gravy called mor kuzhambu and vegetables steamed with coconut. In Karnataka the food is often a touch sweeter, because a little jaggery – unrefined cane sugar – tends to go into sambar and rasam. Kerala uses more coconut, and the rice is often the plump, reddish matta variety. Andhra Pradesh is known for the heat of its meals and for its bold pickles.

Small rituals belong to the tradition too. When eating from a banana leaf, the broad end sits to the right. You eat with your right hand – many say it is the only way to really feel the temperature and texture of the food. After a celebration the leaf is traditionally folded upwards, as a quiet thank-you to the hosts.

Masalas Special Meal at Masalas

Our Special Meal is a complete South Indian meal, the way it is eaten at lunchtime in the south: poori, rice, sambar, rasam, vegetable curries, yoghurt and papad. It is vegetarian, and we cook without alcohol. Pick it up from us in Berlin-Köpenick or have it delivered.

And you choose the heat. If you want it the way it is eaten in India, with real Indian spice, just tell us in the order note – or ask for it mild, as many of our guests in Germany prefer.

Masalas Special Meal
At Masalas, Berlin-Köpenick

Masalas Special Meal

Complete South Indian meal with poori, rice, sambar, rasam, vegetable curries, yoghurt and papad.

24,90 €vegetarianHalal · no alcohol

Allergens: gluten, milk

Your heat: mild, or real Indian spicy – just add it in the note when you order.

Order now

More variations at Masalas

South Indian meal FAQ

In what order do you eat a South Indian meal?

Usually the bread first with a little vegetable curry, then rice with sambar, then rice with rasam, and finally rice with yoghurt. It isn’t a strict rule, but that order lets each flavour shine.

What is the difference between sambar and rasam?

Sambar is a thick stew of lentils, vegetables and tamarind. Rasam is a thin, clear broth with plenty of pepper and sourness, poured over the rice.

Which allergens does the Special Meal contain?

It contains gluten, for example in the poori, and milk, for example in the yoghurt. If you have an allergy, please call us before ordering: 030 66068017.

Masalas · Berlin-Köpenick

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