Dish magazine · Indo-Chinese cuisine

Chilli Paneer: The Wok Classic from Kolkata

Crisp paneer, green chilli and soy: where chilli paneer comes from, how it is made and what it tastes like – from Berlin-Köpenick.

6 min readHalal · no alcohol

Chilli Paneer

Crisp-edged cubes of Indian cheese, glossed in a sauce of soy, garlic and green chilli, tossed with peppers and onions that still have their crunch: chilli paneer is one of India’s favourite vegetarian dishes. Yet it is neither classically Indian nor classically Chinese. It belongs to a cuisine that grew up in Kolkata’s Chinatowns and now turns up on street corners all over India – Indo-Chinese food.

At a glance

  • Name: chilli paneer, sometimes written “paneer chilli”; paneer is Indian fresh cheese
  • Origin: Indo-Chinese cooking, with its roots in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta)
  • Flavour: hot, savoury and salty, with a little sweetness and tang; crisp outside, soft inside
  • Key ingredients: paneer, cornflour, soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, ginger, green chillies, peppers, onions
  • Eat it with: fried rice, Hakka noodles, or on its own as a starter

A dish from India’s oldest Chinatown

To understand chilli paneer, you have to look at Kolkata. For a long time the city was the capital of British India, and Chinese settlers began arriving as early as the late 18th century. Tong Atchew is usually named as the pioneer: in 1778 he set up a sugar mill near the city. Many more migrants from southern China followed, among them Cantonese and, above all, Hakka families.

The Hakka found their niche in leather. In Tangra, a district on the edge of the city, dozens of tanneries sprang up – the name itself roughly means “tannery” in Bengali. After the 1962 border war between India and China, many of those works closed. Some families turned the old tanneries into restaurants, and Tangra became the heart of a cuisine all of its own.

Chinese technique, Indian taste

At first, the Chinese eating houses cooked mainly for their own community. Before long, Indian diners wanted in too – and to them, light Cantonese cooking often felt too restrained. So the cooks adapted: more chilli, more garlic, more ginger, and bold sauces thickened with cornflour. The wok, the soy sauce and the spring onions stayed; the heat came from India.

Chinese wok craft, an Indian love of heat – and a cheese you will not find in China.

From chicken to paneer

The template is chilli chicken, one of the great classics of Indo-Chinese cooking. As the cuisine spread, so did demand for vegetarian versions – a great many people in India do not eat meat. Paneer was the obvious choice: firm, good at soaking up sauce and able to keep its shape. That is why chilli paneer is often described as the vegetarian answer to chilli chicken. By the 1970s, when cooks from Tangra moved to Mumbai and Delhi, this style of food was travelling across the whole country.

What exactly is paneer?

Paneer is a fresh cheese made without rennet. Cow’s or buffalo milk is heated and an acid such as lemon juice is stirred in. The milk curdles, and the curds are drained in a cloth and pressed. The longer the pressing, the firmer the cheese – and chilli paneer needs the firm kind.

Its party trick: paneer does not melt. Unlike mozzarella or cheddar, it holds its cube shape when fried or seared, which is exactly what makes it so good in a wok. Where paneer first came from is still debated; ancient India, Persia and Afghanistan are all put forward.

How chilli paneer is made

It is quick to cook, but it depends on the right order and on fierce heat.

1. The paneer: dusted and fried until crisp

The cubes are tossed in cornflour, often with a little plain flour, salt and white pepper, then fried in hot oil until golden and crisp outside. That thin shell does two jobs: it gives bite, and later it grips the sauce.

2. The wok: garlic, chilli, vegetables

In a smoking-hot wok, garlic, ginger and green chillies are flashed in oil, followed by onions and peppers cut into large pieces. The vegetables only need a moment and should stay crunchy. This is the Chinese side of the dish: a few minutes, a big flame, constant tossing.

3. The sauce: salty, sour, sweet

Next come light and dark soy sauce, a splash of vinegar and a pinch of sugar; many kitchens add chilli sauce too. A little cornflour slaked in water pulls everything together into a glossy coat. The paneer goes back in, gets one good toss and is served straight away, so it stays crisp.

What does chilli paneer taste like?

Texture comes first: a lightly crisp shell around a soft, milky centre. Then the flavour arrives in layers. Soy brings salt and depth, vinegar a bright sharpness, sugar rounds it all off. Green chilli and garlic give a direct, lively heat, while peppers and onions add freshness and crunch. The paneer itself is mild and softens the fire – which is why even cautious chilli eaters tend to love it.

Dry or with gravy?

In India, chilli paneer is usually ordered one of two ways:

  • Chilli paneer dry: the sauce just coats the cubes. This is the starter or snack version, often eaten with cocktail sticks.
  • Chilli paneer gravy: more liquid and cornflour make a silky sauce. This is a main course, eaten with rice or noodles.

It is easy to mix it up with paneer Manchurian. Both come from the same kitchen, but Manchurian dishes have a darker, more savoury sauce heavy on garlic and spring onion, while chilli paneer is defined by peppers, onions and green chillies.

What to eat with chilli paneer

  • Fried rice: the classic partner, especially for the gravy version.
  • Hakka noodles: thin wok-fried noodles with vegetables – in India practically a fixed pairing.
  • Basmati rice: plain and fragrant, letting the sauce take centre stage.
  • Buttermilk: a cool, lightly spiced buttermilk calms the palate between fiery bites.

The chilli family across India

The formula – fry until crisp, then toss in a wok with chilli, peppers and soy – works with plenty of ingredients, so India has a whole family of them: chilli chicken as the original, gobi chilli with cauliflower, chilli mushroom, plus versions with egg or fish. You will find them at street stalls and in restaurants alike, from Kolkata to Mumbai.

Indo-Chinese food has travelled well beyond India too, wherever large communities with Indian roots have settled – in the UK, North America, Australia and the Gulf. Chilli paneer is often one of the first dishes on those menus.

Chilli paneer at Masalas

In our kitchen in Berlin-Köpenick we make chilli paneer with paneer, peppers, onions and chilli sauce, for delivery or pickup. We cook without alcohol.

And you choose the heat. If you want it the way it is eaten in India, with real Indian spice, just tell us in the order note – or ask for it mild, as many of our guests in Germany prefer.

Chilli Paneer
At Masalas, Berlin-Köpenick

Chilli Paneer

Paneer with peppers, onions & chilli sauce

9,90 €vegetarianHalal · no alcohol

Allergens: gluten, soy, milk

Your heat: mild, or real Indian spicy – just add it in the note when you order.

Order now

Chilli paneer FAQ

Is chilli paneer vegetarian?

Yes. It uses paneer, an Indian fresh cheese made from milk, instead of meat – which is why it is known as the vegetarian version of chilli chicken.

Why doesn’t paneer melt when it is fried?

Paneer is set with acid rather than rennet, so it stays firm under high heat and keeps its cube shape – ideal for the wok.

Which allergens does chilli paneer contain?

Our chilli paneer contains gluten, soy and milk. If you have an allergy, please call us before ordering: 030 66068017.

Masalas · Berlin-Köpenick

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